Roll Pins for 15, 30 & 45 Amp Powerpole Housings - 25 pins

I don't understand the negative comments.  All you have to do is grab the pin mid length with needle nose pliers, compress and slip in the hole. press in with the plier"s handle and finish with the nose of the pliers. Not rocket science.

Worked well with 10 AWG zip cord  and the 40A crimps. In that configuration, I prefer to use the individual red and black housings, unzip the red and black wires just enough and no more, crimp, fit each housing, and then slip the housings together to fit. In other words, I prefer to not use the permanently bonded Powerpole housings with 10 AWG because that wire is fairly rigid and it's too hard for me to press-fit both terminals into two housings at once. This way I only have to press-fit one housing at a time.

The pins did not work with a pair of knockoff (non-Anderson) housings that I tried. The knockoff housings fully separated when I inserted the pin. However I do tend to use the 3rd party boots that cover Anderson housings plus about the first 3/4" of cable. If you dress cables carefully, that length of roughly 3/4" is just enough to cover the unzipped part of the zip cord. You may wish to substitute shrink wrap or tape.

These are the simplest, most secure, safest wiring connector i have come across for DIY. Once you figure out the trick (easy) to put them together, they build a nice professional looking wiring harness, without solder and sweat. Much better than most factory wiring harness to work with.

I grab them with a pair of needle nose pliers, line them up on the hole and push them in with screwdriver handle or what ever is in reach.

They're inexpensive, secure and easy to install and remove. I've never had them push the two connectors apart and I've never heard of a roll pin ever falling out.  What more can you ask for?

With these I think you have to try pretty hard to see the glass as half empty.

Assemble a few AR15's and you'll have no problem with these roll pins...read the reviews but ordered them anyway and found they were just too easy to install! I don't understand why anyone would have problems with these. They press in easily and retain the two connectors perfectly. 5 Stars!

Used these today for some of the under the dash connections during a trailer brake controller install. They are not easy to press in but I guess if they were then they may fall out. For me they worked as I expected them to.

My experience is 180 degrees opposite the other reviewers.  They are neat, secure, and allow for disassembly.  Very useful if you are interacting with Hams using the old pre-ARES standard where red is on the left. I made an insertion/removal tool by inserting a sewing machine needle into a half-inch dowel and then cutting all but 1/4" off the sharp end.  Makes assembly super easy.

Same as the other reviewers, these are not usable as they won't compress.  They are too rigid.

I agree with the other reviewer about this pin creating more problems than being a solution. I also use the cable tie method but use it to tie the two mating housings together. This will prevent from the connection coming apart and from sliding.

These sound like a great idea until you try them out.  The roll pins are so rigid and the plastic housings are so (relatively) flexible that instead of the roll pin compressing, the two housings spread apart slightly to accommodate the pin.  This makes the pinned connector pair a little harder to connect to a pair that is not pinned due to the slight spacing mismatch.

They also don't feel like they'll stay in place super reliably.  If one comes loose, you've got a nice little conductive piece of metal bouncing around near your electrical equipment.  That's a recipe for a really bad day if the pin finds it's way into anything with a circuit board.

Other than trying one or two out initially, they're all sitting in the bottom of a box somewhere.  I've never had problems with connectors coming apart anyways.  Running a small zip tie through the hole intended for the roll pin and zipping it shut around the back (wire) side of the housings works just as well with none of the side effects, and is easily reversible if a connector needs to be reconfigured.  A drop of super glue in the dovetail joint as the two are slid together should work even better, but would be permanent.